So after an uneventful train ride, and a momentary panic after I misplaced my wallet, we came into the city of Calcutta. This is a very old historic city that I regrettably was not able to spend any time in this trip except for a taxi ride over in which I saw so much. I saw hundreds of people who lived on the sidewalk with nothing but a tarp to call their own. I saw grand hindu temples with extravagant carvings all along the outside. I saw so many markets, and shops and all that you expect to see if you know India, but in this place what I gathered is that this place was just hard on people. I felt like these people had a burden on them. This place made me sad.
We had a few hours to kill at the airport and then flew out to Varanasi airport. Now from what I have been told by my dad all the airports 4 years ago were the type you might expect to see if you were flying in while India was still a British colony, but these airports that I have seen are all new, as in in the last two years new airports are popping up everywhere. As I type this I am in the Varanasi airport I am sitting on a shiny marble floor in a white near spotless airport. Interesting stuff.
We flew into the Varanasi airport and waited for a couple of hours for Randy to fly in and meet us. We waited in a very comfortable airport restaurant munching on butter chicken and sipping on limca soda’s. We eventually met Randy, negotiated a taxi price, and hit the road on our way to the Sirya Hotel. On the ride we saw a lot of typical India, lots of people, the same junk being sold in the shops as everywhere else, but there was one more element that I had not seen so far. Cow pie mounds.
A few years ago NASA decided to search and find out where a certain type of air pollution was coming from that was being noticed blowing into American air. They conducted a few years of study and finally found their solution. Here in India the sky is not blue, it is white from pollution. But there are not many cars, there is not abundant industrial parks, so what is causing this? Burning cow dung. That’s right. Burning cow dung. They take cow pies and slap them against the walls of the buildings, leaving a hand imprint, and let them dry, they then take them and stack them in mounds up to 10 feet tall waiting for them to be burned. Why do they burn the cow dung? Because wood is not in abundant supply, so they are able to burn the dung, mostly for cooking their food over. Yes, those that cannot afford gas stoves cook their food over cow dung. I saw dozens of these mounds as we worked our way from the outskirts and into the city.
As we drove I saw my first two elephants with their riders on top of them.
We arrived at the hotel which based on our experiences so far was4 star at a 2 star price, very professional, very clean. We checked into our room and called a friend of my dad named Jeremy, Jeremy is a CP worker in Varanasi and is on the extreme of the contextualization movement. Jeremy runs a business called Varanasi Walks and he does walking tours all though the city of Varanasi and he took us on a very unique experience.
Jeremy came to our room and walked with us out to the road from where we found a pair of auto rickshaws. Now I had not ridden in a auto rickshaw yet so I was a bit nervous at the prospect, from my perspective the auto rickshaws were death traps with wheels waiting to be hit by a negligent bus or fin the pothole in the road that a car wouldn’t give a care to. In fact RIGHT before we left my dad showed me videos of rickshaws being wiped out by larger vehicles soooo thank you preparing me J but in all actuality it was not that bad, these rickshaws are like motorcycles with a cover and a bench seat in the back behind the driver. All of our drivers have had 10+ years of experience so they knew exactly what they were doing thank God.

Jeremy had them drop us off at a alleyway opening that looking at it you would expect it to end 100 feet in, oh no. This was not the case by any extent. This place that Jeremy lead us through is the epitome of a labyrinth, twists and turns and shops and homes and cows and monkeys and shrines and temples and mosques, it would take me days to describe to you what I saw on this walk and I cannot begin to help you comprehend what I saw unless I were to walk you through the same streets. So in the interest of time and my sanity I will break the walk down to 5 experiences on this walk.
All throughout this area we saw shops of all kinds though the most common to see were the jewelry crafters. The man above was working of shaping incredible works on silver brass and bronze. There were dozens and dozens of these that we passed along the way, though most would not allow pictures.
The second of the interesting sights that we saw was Jeremy’s base where he works from. The building in which he operates is a 250 year old building built by a very rich sari merchant. The building was 4 stories tall and had a “self air-conditioning” function that Jeremy told us of, in the middle of the building there is no roof for a shaft going straight down. This functions to ventilate the entire building, and when It rains the house cools and the water drains out at the bottom, a very slick system.
In the house they have a ashran where they hold worship and teachings. I mentioned earlier that Jeremy Is on the frontier of the contextualization movement in India, this is where they do not at all “westernize” if you will the gospel of Christ. They have a ashran in the room that is common in hindu houses, they have a hindu lame, they blow the conk shells, many things that are hindu in origin repurposed with the gospel as the context so that the people that are being called to Christ do not have to feel that they have to abandon their heritage to follow the true God. This is attacked on many fronts from within the church as you can surely imagine, so they are stepping out a bit in this action.
From the top of the building you can see most of the city of Varanasi, the All-India-Radio tower (AIR), the Ganges river, the mosque overlooking the Ganges (which we saw on the tour). It felt almost like one of those third world cities you play in Call of duty or something.
From this building we once again entered the labyrinth praying we would not lose Jeremy in the crowd. The next stand out sight that we saw was a famous hindu temple, I have no idea what the name was but it apparently is many hundreds of years old, but the amazing thing was what lay beyond, Jeremy lead us past the door to a underground tunnel, and at the end of the tunnel we found a secret garden. Here of all places with millions of people around us and every square foot of land developed we found a serine garden where the greatest Indian poet would sit and write masterpieces.
After we made our way the next on the list and we came to a huge mosque overlooking most of the river and the stone steps that lead to the shore. Apparently the place where the mosque stands was once a great hindu temple but the muslims came and destroyed it all the way to the foundation and built the mosque in its place.
From here we wandered through the labyrinth and eventually popped out on at the Ganges and ate dinner in, of all places, a authentic Italian pizzeria called Pizzeria Vatica, a little place on the steps of the ghat, cool stuff. Really good pizza and some apple pie.
We hitched another ride on an auto rickshaw to the hotel sirya. Now to fit three big corn fed American men into one of these tiny rickshaws we had to put two of us on the bench in the back, and the third person would squeeze a cheek onto the seat with the driver and hold on tight. I really enjoyed this because what I was doing every time I got to sit up front is I would hold on with one hand and lean out of the rickshaw seeing all I could, taking in every possible sight, sound, and smell. When we got close to a cycle rickshaw or a pillar or something like that I would quickly pull back in and then lean far out again. I do not recommend this to others but I had a blast doing this :D
So the next day we got up and headed out to meet with some of the YWAM (youth with a mission) workers in the neighboring city of Sarnath. On the way though we were caught up in traffic. If you have never been to India you need to look up on youtube some footage of Indian traffic, there is absolutely no rule of the road that is kept to. So when we came across a sewage system being put into the road blocking 70% of the road so as you can imagine there was gridlock, and this is not at all uncommon in India.
Well we eventually got out and walked and got to YWAM’s Varanasi base, they were having a worship service with about 20 of their church planters. My dad was here in the YWAM base last year so he knew many of the people that where there. We shared a bit and afterward we met with the two men who are head at the Varanasi base, great doorways were opened at the meeting. I can describe later if you want but it would take too much time to type.
After the meeting was finished we got a auto rickshaw and made our way back to the Ganges river. The rickshaw could only take us as close as ½ a mile so we walked through the crowded market towards the river. I tell ya, walking through a Indian market is one of the most stimulating experiences I’ve ever had, the sights, the smells, the people, everything comes together in a random chaotic symphony what leaves you wanting more.
Was came to the river and was met by a sight of boats on the river, beggars laying on the side of the walkway, peddlers trying to make a easy buck, and as always, a lot of people. We negotiated with a boatman to take us on the river for 2 hours.
In Hinduism the stretch of the river that goes along side Varanasi it is believed that the bend in the holy river wards off the god of death, so if you die on the shore of the Ganges you will achieve nirvana, that is, that you will pass into eternity and have no more reincarnations. So at the shores of the Ganges there are buildings full of people, this is where men and women come to die so they will achieve this goal of Hinduism. This place is bondage, I was struck more than ever before of the fact that there is freedom in Christ, we are not bound to our sins, we do not have to be sure to die here, or be buried there, we are free in him. Jesus had made us free.
We were guided by our boat to a place just off shore of the burning ghat. This is where the hindus who die are cremated by their families. I saw 5 or 6 people burning at once at this place. At one point one of the family members of the deceased went to shore and threw into the river the ashes and remaining bones. I cannot fathom the amount of lost people crying out into the void in vain from this place. There are so many people in this country, and most of them are lost. It breaks my heart that these people are so devoted and do so much all in vain.

After the burning ghat we made our way to a place where we watched a fire dance preformed by 7 hindu priest. It all seemed to me to be just a lot of noise and senseless movements, but to the boat with 20 Europeans behind us it was like they were seeing the red sea part. We did not stay for the rest of this ceremony, but rather we made our way to the shore and worked our way back to Pizza Vatica for once again some of the best pizza and apple pie I have ever had.
On our way back we caught a ride from a auto rickshaw driver named Supha Monkeith. To give some perspective to the Indian mindset that permeates the lower classes, Supha believes that in his last life he was a cycle rickshaw driver, and because of his performing well we is now in this life a auto rickshaw driver, and he believes that he will in the next life be a taxi driver and own many auto rickshaws. Do you see what this means? In America we have a problem that because we believe that we deserve better we have a entitlement mindset. But here in India because of the caste system people in lower castes are not allowed to think they deserve better because they are where they are because of how they performed in the last life. Therefore it is bad dharma to try to get ahead, the American dream is totally contrary to this midset, so it is hard for us as Americans to see why they would rather stay where they are. But it is all they have known, they do not know that there is a better way.
The next day we got rolling a bit later then the previous day. This day we went to the city of Sarnath, this is a very important city in the buddhist religion. This city is where Buddha gave his first sermon and gained his 5 disciples. In this place We saw many temples, we say many prayer clothes, and we saw a tree that the seed of which was brought supposedly by Buddha himself from shrilanka and planted here. So this place can be described as the birthplace of Buddhism.
The most impressive thing that we saw in Sarnath was a massive brick and stone mound. This mound stands over 300 ft high and is dated all the way back to 300 B.C.
The whole of the area in and around Varanasi is filled with rich and dynamic religious history, and I was amazed that the level of care for these holy places was so low. I mean when you contrast places like St Mary’s cathedral to this place, its night and day. The Ganges was literally filled with bones, sewage, and garbage. The buddhist temples were not particularly clean and certainly not well polished. But its all they have known, by Indian standards I suppose the temples were very nice, and the gangese was just about the location more than anything, but for this their ‘holy’ place, I just expected them to have a higher standard for their gods.
We grabbed some McDonalds on the way to the airport and flew out to New Delhi again.
So that is the bare minimum of my experience in Varanasi, as always more details are available upon request, but the details are far too much to paint a picture for here. So feel free to ask for more, but for now this is all I can put into words.
See you next time,
Rick.